Post-Coast

Monday morning was an early start and after sharing a breakfast and a round of hugs we said our goodbyes and headed off to start our respective weeks. I was heading up to Vipava to sample the wines and see the valley.

 Heading to Vipava meant riding back the same way that I had come only a few days earlier so also meant climbing up from sea level. After three days of good food and rest, and with the advice of an old italian man to be 'piano' about life, it wasnt too bad of a day.

I stopped in at a few wineries on the way to the Vipava area but being the off season and without setting anything up before hand it became more of a trek sampling the variety of barking dogs at each house. I found a place to stay in Vipava, talked the 'accordion' with my host who is developing an app for the accordion, listened as he performed a traditional waltz on one of his many accordions in his studio, headed out for a late meal and decided to head out to Pliskonica to stay at a hostel the next night.

Its not far of a trek to Pliskovica from Vipava so I shared a two hour breakfast with two other bike tourers from New Zealand. I think they were part of the New Zealand propaganda group and planted seeds for my next trip. They are in their late fifties and still travel by bike when on vacation. With shared tales of biking and after exchanging emails we headed off to meet our days.

A 'road' I found myself on heading out

There isnt too much to visit between Vipava and Pliskovica but there is one town called Stanjel that is now known for weddings as much as it is for its unique design. The town, because of its position in the Vipava valley was used as a area for fortification and has been rebuilt numerous times in its history. One of the last constructions was the Ferrari Gardens designed by Max Fabiani, who was also born in Stanjel. It was completed in 1920 and is now used as a photography backdrop for the happy new couples.

I took my time sauntering along the quiet mellow roads and subdued villages and  enjoyed the flatness and effortlessness of being on a small plateau. On my way I chatted with a Slovenian cyclist who was doing a tour on his own, but besides lycra, a phone and presumably some money he didnt have much. Most Slovenian people I talk with appreciate their country and landscape, but it seems like its the cyclists that not only know what their landscape looks like but what it also feels like in their legs, lungs and heart. As a cyclist it feels like you are being shaped by the landscape as much as you are by the people, culture and their stories. Some landscapes will inevitably be more memorable.

Signs of autumn around each corner

Village honesty at its sweetest

I arrived in Pliskovica and learned that I had to head 4 kms from town to the closest grocery store for any food for the night so after taking off my panniers and with one empty bag I headed into town. It was the first time I had ridden my bike without the extra 30 to 40 pounds of weight and it was one of the most satisfying rides. I thought I would catch up on rest and reading so being in a converted farmhouse, and also with some weather coming in, I grabbed some food and wine and stayed put for two days before heading back up to the Soca valley to see family and the town where my father was raised.